Essential Oils
The essential oils offered by Mountain Rose Herbs are 100% pure steam distilled plant oils with an unsurpassable fragrance, exceptional depth, magnificent keynote, and are free of carriers, diluents and other inputs. Here you will find some of the worlds most magnificent therapeutic grade oils from reputable distillers and suppliers we know, trust, and have a wonderful working relationship with. Mountain Rose Herbs essential oils are processed from freshly harvested material within clean distilleries, thus promising you some of the most magnificent oils available on the market. We invite you to "smell test" our line of oils with what is currently being offered in the market, and experience for yourself the unsurpassable nature of our oils.
We are so confident in the quality of our oils that we can provide gas chromatography analysis and specifications on the volatility and integrity for many of the essential oils we stock. As per our commitment to organic agriculture, we offer one of the nations largest selections of certified organic essential oils. Considering the amount of pesticide use from the planting to the harvest, we are very concerned about the low quality and potential health hazards associated with many conventional oils.
We perform painstaking research when we decide to stock a particular distillers oil and insist on the location of harvest, methods used to extract the oils, data reports assuring the oils character, and what type of material is used in the distillation process.
All of the essential oils we stock are obtained by steam distillation of fresh plant material with two exceptions
Absolutes/Resins- are extracted with a solvent, usually alcohol and sometimes other hydrocarbons, such as benzene, hexane, etc. While they are not suitable for therapeutic aromatherapy, they do make wonderful perfumes and are alcohol soluble. Those oils which we have found to be extracted with solvents will be noted as "solvent extracted."
Citrus Oils- All citrus oils offered are distilled strictly through cold pressed methods, and no steam distillation was employed to produce these oils.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Guidelines for Using Essential Oils and Herbs
Safety Precautions
Because essential oils are concentrated, highly potent substances, a working knowledge of how to use them safely is vital to the success of your efforts. The potential hazards of an essential oil depend on the compounds in the oil, the dosage and frequency used, and the method of application. Here are a few guidelines to ensure safe and effective use of essential oils:
Don't use undiluted essential oils on the skin. They can cause burning, skin irritation and photosensitivity. There are a few exceptions to this rule: it is acceptable to use the nonirritating oils lavender or tea tree undiluted on burns, insect bites, pimples and other skin eruptions-as long as you don't have extremely sensitive skin. If you find an essential oil irritating but would like to use it, and have determined that the irritation is not due to an allergy, try massaging the diluted blend into the soles of your feet. The oil will not irritate the skin, and will still enter the body.
Use only pure essential oils from plants.
Test for sensitivities. Most people with sensitivities to synthetic fragrances are not sensitive to high-quality essential oils. Also people who are allergic to, say, chamomile tea will not necessarily be allergic to the essential oil. If you are uncertain about an oil, do a patch test of a 2-percent dilution in the crook of the arm or on the back of the neck at the hairline. Twelve hours is ample time for a reaction to occur. If redness or itching develops, you may want to try a less potent dilution, or choose an appropriate substitute for the irritating oil.
Use with caution those essential oils that result in photosensitivity. Citrus oils can irritate skin, and some of them will cause uneven pigmentation of the skin upon exposure to sun lamps or sunlight. This is especially true of bergamot, which contains bergaptene, a powerful photosensitizer that will cause allergic reactions in some individuals. (Bergaptene-free oil is available.) Of the citrus oils, bergamot is the most photosensitizing, followed by cold-pressed lime, bitter orange, and to some degree, lemon and grapefruit. Of the lemon oils, California oil is the least photosensitizing. If you are using photosensitizing oils on your skin, do so at night, stay indoors, or wait at least four hours before exposing your skin to ultraviolet light.
Use with caution those essential oils that are irritating to mucous membrane (the lining of the digestive, respiratory and genito-urinary tracts) and skin. Keep all essential oils away from the eyes.
Keep all essential oils out of the reach of young children; older children can be taught to respect and properly use essential oils, but they should nevertheless be supervised. In general, when treating children with essential oils use one-third to one-half the adult dosage and select only nontoxic oils. Among the best and safest essential oils for children are lavender, tangerine, mandarin, neroli, frankincense, petitgrain and Roman chamomile.
Vary the essential oils you use. Using the same facial oil blend for a long period of time is acceptable because it covers a very small part of the body, but daily application of the same blend of oils over your entire body for more than two weeks is not recommended. It is wise to alternate with a blend of different oils containing different chemical constituents at least every two weeks. Uninterrupted use of some oils exposes your liver and kidneys to chemical constituents that may be harmful over time. Rotating the oils gives your body time to process them and allows each oil to work on different levels in its own unique way.
Because essential oils are concentrated, highly potent substances, a working knowledge of how to use them safely is vital to the success of your efforts. The potential hazards of an essential oil depend on the compounds in the oil, the dosage and frequency used, and the method of application. Here are a few guidelines to ensure safe and effective use of essential oils:
Don't use undiluted essential oils on the skin. They can cause burning, skin irritation and photosensitivity. There are a few exceptions to this rule: it is acceptable to use the nonirritating oils lavender or tea tree undiluted on burns, insect bites, pimples and other skin eruptions-as long as you don't have extremely sensitive skin. If you find an essential oil irritating but would like to use it, and have determined that the irritation is not due to an allergy, try massaging the diluted blend into the soles of your feet. The oil will not irritate the skin, and will still enter the body.
Use only pure essential oils from plants.
Test for sensitivities. Most people with sensitivities to synthetic fragrances are not sensitive to high-quality essential oils. Also people who are allergic to, say, chamomile tea will not necessarily be allergic to the essential oil. If you are uncertain about an oil, do a patch test of a 2-percent dilution in the crook of the arm or on the back of the neck at the hairline. Twelve hours is ample time for a reaction to occur. If redness or itching develops, you may want to try a less potent dilution, or choose an appropriate substitute for the irritating oil.
Use with caution those essential oils that result in photosensitivity. Citrus oils can irritate skin, and some of them will cause uneven pigmentation of the skin upon exposure to sun lamps or sunlight. This is especially true of bergamot, which contains bergaptene, a powerful photosensitizer that will cause allergic reactions in some individuals. (Bergaptene-free oil is available.) Of the citrus oils, bergamot is the most photosensitizing, followed by cold-pressed lime, bitter orange, and to some degree, lemon and grapefruit. Of the lemon oils, California oil is the least photosensitizing. If you are using photosensitizing oils on your skin, do so at night, stay indoors, or wait at least four hours before exposing your skin to ultraviolet light.
Use with caution those essential oils that are irritating to mucous membrane (the lining of the digestive, respiratory and genito-urinary tracts) and skin. Keep all essential oils away from the eyes.
Keep all essential oils out of the reach of young children; older children can be taught to respect and properly use essential oils, but they should nevertheless be supervised. In general, when treating children with essential oils use one-third to one-half the adult dosage and select only nontoxic oils. Among the best and safest essential oils for children are lavender, tangerine, mandarin, neroli, frankincense, petitgrain and Roman chamomile.
Vary the essential oils you use. Using the same facial oil blend for a long period of time is acceptable because it covers a very small part of the body, but daily application of the same blend of oils over your entire body for more than two weeks is not recommended. It is wise to alternate with a blend of different oils containing different chemical constituents at least every two weeks. Uninterrupted use of some oils exposes your liver and kidneys to chemical constituents that may be harmful over time. Rotating the oils gives your body time to process them and allows each oil to work on different levels in its own unique way.
How To Use Essential Oils Effectively
Here is a brief overview of how to use essential oils effectively.
This article includes:
• The Seven Best Ways of Using Essential Oils Effectively
• How Essential Oils Work: Absorption and Effects
• Contamination: Ten Important Facts To Know Before Purchasing
• The Safe Use of Essential Oils
We recommend that you begin your journey into the world of our Aromatic Treasures by reading this overview first. Please visit the ‘Writings’ section of the website for more in depth and inspiring educational material where you will learn the stories, healing properties and various uses of these phenomenal medicines.
The Seven Best Ways of Using Essential Oils for Health and Healing
1) Inhalations
This is the use of essential oils on hot compress, using diffusers, or onto hot water for inhalation. Standard dose is 10 drops. Best for respiratory and sinus, headaches. Caution: prolonged inhalation of concentrated essential oils can cause headaches, vertigo, dizziness, nausea, and lethargy.
2) Baths
A generally safe does is 5 - 10 drops of milder oils. Put oil on water immediately before entering bath, disperse. Can be mixed with 1/2 to 1 cup sesame oil or milk then poured into bath. A 1/2 ounce bottle is a perfect size for a bath blend. Add 2 or more essential oils using up to 7 or 8 drops to total to carrier oil. Pour this into tub.
Aromatic baths are excellent for skin problems, circulatory problems, respiratory symptoms, stress and nervous tension, insomnia, muscular and menstrual pains.
Caution: overuse of essential oils in the bath can cause irritation. Use only mild, non-irritating oils for bath, such as lavender and clary sage.
3) Compresses
10 drops oil in 4 oz hot water, soak cloth, wrap. Good for bruises, wounds, muscular aches and pains, dysmenorrhea, skin problems.
4) Facial steam
1 - 5 drops on hot water in a pot, cover head with a towel, steam face. Excellent for opening sinuses, headaches, skin treatment.
5) Massage
Pure essential oils are about 70 times more concentrated than the whole plant.
Dilutions are typically 2% - 10%. For adults, a 2.5% dilution is recommended for most purposes. For children under 12, 1% is generally safe.
A 2.5% blend for a 1 ounce bottle of carrier oil is 15 drops of essential oil.
1% = 6 drops per oz
2% = 12
3% = 18
5% = 30
10% = 60
6) Direct Palm Inhalation
Caution: This method of use should only be done with oils that can be safely applied to the skin (see the toxicology and safety section below). Apply 1-2 drops of oil to the palms, rub together gently and inhale deeply. This is an excellent method of use for a quick and easy exposure to the anti-microbial and other therapeutic uses of essential oils.
7) Diffusers
There are various types of diffusers on the market, with different advantages and disadvantages.
Candle diffusers
Usually a heat resistant vessel for water and essential oils, and a heat resistant platform that holds the vessel over a small candle.
Advantages: very simple to use; provides light background fragrancing
Disadvantages: does not produce strong concentration for therapeutic benefits.
Electric heat diffusers
Small absorbent pads are placed inside of a heating chamber with ventilation that allows the aromatic compounds to evaporate into the surrounding air.
Advantages: easy to use; minimal maintenance; can diffuse thicker oils.
Disadvantages: heat damages some aromatic compounds.
Cool air nebulizing diffusers
A system that uses air pressure generated by a compressing unit to vaporize the essential oils. A glass nebulizing bulb serves as a condenser, allowing only the finest particles of the essential oil to escape into the air.
Advantages: strong diffusion maximizes therapeutic benefits in respiratory conditions.
Disadvantages: diffusers need to be cleaned regularly, and tend to clog. More viscous oils cannot be diffused (such as sandalwood or ylang ylang).
Timers
Electric heat and cool air nebulizers can be purchased with timers, to produce intermittent diffusion. This reduces the amount of oil consumed, and prevents over-saturation in a room.
Other methods
Adding essential oils to room humidifiers
Essential oil rings places on light bulbs
The Absorption and Effects of Essential Oils
Glandular
Essential oils probably exert their most powerful and direct pharmacological effects systemically via the blood supply to the brain. They also have an indirect effect via the olfactory nerve pathways into the brain. Essential oil fragrances are absorbed through blood circulation and nerve pathways from the sinuses into the central glands of the brain, which control emotional, neurological, and immunological functions.
Skin
Essential oils are absorbed in minute quantities through the skin, depending on the oil, dilution, and application (carrier oil, compress, etc). Many of the indications for specific oils include various skin conditions.
Respiratory
Essential oils are inhaled during treatment, which have a direct effect of the sinuses, throat, and lungs. Many essential oils are specific medicines for respiratory conditions.
Circulation
Many essential oils have beneficial effects on circulatory problems, both through dermal and respiratory absorption. These oils enhance the circulation stimulating effects of massage.
Adulteration and Contamination
The 10 Most Important Points To Know Before You Purchase Essential Oils
1) “Pure”
In the US, the term “pure” has no legal meaning and is often applied to just about anything.
2) Synthetic Fragrances
Certain oils do not exist in a natural state, and are only available as synthetic fragrances or “bouqueted” fragrances (combination of essential oils, absolutes, and synthetics). These include honeysuckle, linden, gardenia, frangipani.
3) Adulteration
The more expensive an oil, the more risk of adulteration.
Some oils are highly adulterated, such as melissa (lemon balm), rose, and sandalwood.
4) Chain of Supply
The fragrance industry has many levels of buyers and suppliers. The more levels that are involved, the more there is risk of adulteration. Large volumes of oils are sold as “genuine” and “pure,” which are not. False advertising is rampant in the aromatherapy world. It is best to get oils directly from the distiller.
Pesticides
Some pesticides are carried over in the extracting process, some are not.
Expressed citrus oils contain pesticide residues.
5) Grades
Lower grades of oils are frequently sold as higher. A good example is ylang ylang.
6) Extenders
Many oils are “extended” using synthetic or natural solvents.
Expensive oils are frequently extended with jojoba.
Some oils are extended to make them more pourable, like benzoin; the solvent is frequently questionable.
7) Bulking
Bulking is the post-distillation combining of oils from one or more species, or loading plants of the same species from different harvests into the still together. Dried plant material from different years may be bulked with fresh.
Bulking is done to make the product cheaper and/or to make it conform to some standard desirable to the fragrance or flavoring industries.
8) Rectified or Redistilled:
Oils that have had natural components removed from them: terpene-less oils, furocoumarin-free oils.
9) Folded
Oils, (usually citrus) that have been redistilled a number of times to remove more of the monoterpenes (usually) to make the oil more desirable for the flavoring industry.
10) Reconstituted
Oils that have had natural or synthetic chemical components added to them after distillation.
The Safe Use of Essential Oils
In general, when used properly essential oils are quite safe and highly beneficial. However, because their uses are still relatively unknown, people can and do hurt themselves by using these highly concentrated botanical substances improperly.
Toxicology and Safety
• Do not use essential oils internally.
• Do not apply directly to skin; always dilute with carrier oil.
• Keep out of reach of children.
• Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
• Do not use citrus oils before exposure to UV light.
• Use only pure essential oils; avoid synthetic fragrances.
• Do not use essential oils on infants, children, pregnant women, the elderly, or those with serious health problems, without advanced medical study.
• Avoid prolonged exposure without ventilation.
• Store essential oils and carrier oils properly to avoid degradation and rancidity.
Do not use essential oils internally.
There are two exceptions to this rule.
• The first is properly administered dosages of essential oil medications prescribed by a licensed physician. This is now occurring in certain European clinics, but is rarely available in the US. People should avoid using essential oils internally if prescribed by a lay practitioner, especially if the practitioner’s education is primarily from the marketing perspective rather than clinical.
• The second exception is biocompatible levels of essential oil ingestion when taken as part of the diet. A good example of this is oregano oil. Oregano oil is widely marketed for internal consumption, with numerous claims made about its therapeutic efficacy. In actual practice, the internal consumption of this oil frequently causes the typical symptoms associated with the ingestion of essential oils, such as extreme gastric hyperacidity. On the other hand, the use of oregano as a fresh herb, steamed at the end of food preparation, provides all the benefits of oregano oil at a biocompatible level, with none of the gastric dangers.
Should accidental ingestion of any significant amount of an essential oil occur, immediately call your local Poison Control Center. Do not induce vomiting. Do not give water if breathing or swallowing is difficult.
Do not apply directly to skin; always dilute with carrier oil.
Essential oils are very concentrated. Dilute all essential oils before applying to the skin, either in a fatty oil, or in water as when used on a compress.
There are two exceptions to this rule.
The first is the use of attars as perfumes. Because the floral essences are distilled into a base of sandalwood oil, the sandalwood oil acts as a carrier which dilutes the potency of the pure essential oil.
The second is the reasonable use of mild essential oils that have a well documented history of safety. The best example of this is lavender; however, even lavender can be problematic for some people. Skin reactivity is becoming more of a problem as synthetic aroma chemicals become more common adulterants in the essential oil industry.
A general rule is to never apply more than one to two drops of undiluted oil to the skin. Patch testing is always advisable. For people with sensitive skin, always test a small area with a diluted oil before applying over a larger area. For general non-medical use, avoid essential oils with highly sensitive skin and with any instances of skin allergies, severe inflammation and dermatitis. Pure essential oils are much less dangerous than synthetic aroma chemicals.
Skin Reactions
Skin reactions are dependent on the type of oil, the concentration of the oil, and the condition of the skin. It is best to check with clients to determine any prior history of skin reactions before using oils, either for dermal or respiratory applications.
Old and oxidized oils are more prone to cause reactions, especially rashes. Refrigerate fatty carrier oils to prevent rancidity. Essential oils generally have a shelf life of one to three years. Some get better with age, such as sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. The citrus oils are most prone to degradation, and should be used within one year.
Skin reactions to essential oils can take three forms:
• Irritation:
A small number of oils are strongly or severely irritant. These include horseradish, mustard, garlic, and onion (which are rarely used in aromatherapy practice). Some oils used in massage practice can be moderately irritant, such as cinnamon, clove, fennel, and verbena. These oils should be used cautiously or avoided in cases of skin sensitivity.
• Sensitization:
Skin sensitization means an allergic skin reaction; this usually manifests as a rash. There are relatively few oils used in a typical massage practice that will produce sensitization under normal applications in a carrier oil. However, there are a number of reports on Pubmed of allergic reactions to essential oils. These include contact dermatitis, eczema, asthma, and pruritic erythematous eruptions. These cases were predominantly among those who used essential oils professionally for long periods of time, such as massage therapists and estheticians. The cases frequently involved exposure to numerous essential oils, and it is also likely that the quality of the oils was poor.
• Phototoxicity:
Some essential oils can strongly increase sensitivity to sunlight when applied to the skin. This is especially dangerous when applied undiluted to the skin, but even low concentrations in a carrier oil can cause problems if followed by exposure to sun or tanning lamps. Phototoxicity will be much stronger directly after application of the oil, and will gradually decrease over an eight to twelve hour period; if higher than normal concentrations are used it can be longer. Most of the phototoxic oils are also photocarcinogenic. The most common oils which cause phototoxicity are the citruses; bergamot is the most reactive. Some citruses are phototoxic if expressed, but not if distilled, such as lemon and lime. Other oils include marigold (tagetes), verbena, and angelica. The best practice is to use proper dilutions, avoid direct exposure to UV rays after application, and avoid the use of citrus oils if exposure will be occurring after treatment.
The best treatment for skin irritation from essential oils is to apply a fatty oil, such as coconut, which will dilute the impact of the essential oils.
Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes
If an essential oil gets into the eye, do not rub it. Saturate a cotton ball with milk or vegetable oil and wipe over the area affected. In severe instances flood the eye area with lukewarm water for fifteen minutes.
Take special precautions with applications near delicate skin areas.
Use only pure essential oils; avoid synthetic fragrances.
Avoid prolonged exposure without ventilation
Overexposure to essential oils, especially in confined areas, can cause dizziness, nausea, light headedness, headache, blood sugar imbalances, irritability, euphoria. When exposed to high levels of essential oils make sure to keep the room well ventilated.
Store essential oils and carrier oils properly to avoid degradation and rancidity.
Air, heat and light degrade essential oils. Store essential oils in a cool, dark room and always keep your oils tightly sealed.
Do not use essential oils on infants, children, pregnant women, the elderly, or those with serious health problems, without advanced medical study.
General Advice
Before experimenting with an oil, become familiar with it’s properties, dose, and precautions.
When in doubt about a condition or an oil, consult a qualified medical specialist.
If in doubt use safe, non-irritating essential oils and dilute them with a carrier oil before using.
This article includes:
• The Seven Best Ways of Using Essential Oils Effectively
• How Essential Oils Work: Absorption and Effects
• Contamination: Ten Important Facts To Know Before Purchasing
• The Safe Use of Essential Oils
We recommend that you begin your journey into the world of our Aromatic Treasures by reading this overview first. Please visit the ‘Writings’ section of the website for more in depth and inspiring educational material where you will learn the stories, healing properties and various uses of these phenomenal medicines.
The Seven Best Ways of Using Essential Oils for Health and Healing
1) Inhalations
This is the use of essential oils on hot compress, using diffusers, or onto hot water for inhalation. Standard dose is 10 drops. Best for respiratory and sinus, headaches. Caution: prolonged inhalation of concentrated essential oils can cause headaches, vertigo, dizziness, nausea, and lethargy.
2) Baths
A generally safe does is 5 - 10 drops of milder oils. Put oil on water immediately before entering bath, disperse. Can be mixed with 1/2 to 1 cup sesame oil or milk then poured into bath. A 1/2 ounce bottle is a perfect size for a bath blend. Add 2 or more essential oils using up to 7 or 8 drops to total to carrier oil. Pour this into tub.
Aromatic baths are excellent for skin problems, circulatory problems, respiratory symptoms, stress and nervous tension, insomnia, muscular and menstrual pains.
Caution: overuse of essential oils in the bath can cause irritation. Use only mild, non-irritating oils for bath, such as lavender and clary sage.
3) Compresses
10 drops oil in 4 oz hot water, soak cloth, wrap. Good for bruises, wounds, muscular aches and pains, dysmenorrhea, skin problems.
4) Facial steam
1 - 5 drops on hot water in a pot, cover head with a towel, steam face. Excellent for opening sinuses, headaches, skin treatment.
5) Massage
Pure essential oils are about 70 times more concentrated than the whole plant.
Dilutions are typically 2% - 10%. For adults, a 2.5% dilution is recommended for most purposes. For children under 12, 1% is generally safe.
A 2.5% blend for a 1 ounce bottle of carrier oil is 15 drops of essential oil.
1% = 6 drops per oz
2% = 12
3% = 18
5% = 30
10% = 60
6) Direct Palm Inhalation
Caution: This method of use should only be done with oils that can be safely applied to the skin (see the toxicology and safety section below). Apply 1-2 drops of oil to the palms, rub together gently and inhale deeply. This is an excellent method of use for a quick and easy exposure to the anti-microbial and other therapeutic uses of essential oils.
7) Diffusers
There are various types of diffusers on the market, with different advantages and disadvantages.
Candle diffusers
Usually a heat resistant vessel for water and essential oils, and a heat resistant platform that holds the vessel over a small candle.
Advantages: very simple to use; provides light background fragrancing
Disadvantages: does not produce strong concentration for therapeutic benefits.
Electric heat diffusers
Small absorbent pads are placed inside of a heating chamber with ventilation that allows the aromatic compounds to evaporate into the surrounding air.
Advantages: easy to use; minimal maintenance; can diffuse thicker oils.
Disadvantages: heat damages some aromatic compounds.
Cool air nebulizing diffusers
A system that uses air pressure generated by a compressing unit to vaporize the essential oils. A glass nebulizing bulb serves as a condenser, allowing only the finest particles of the essential oil to escape into the air.
Advantages: strong diffusion maximizes therapeutic benefits in respiratory conditions.
Disadvantages: diffusers need to be cleaned regularly, and tend to clog. More viscous oils cannot be diffused (such as sandalwood or ylang ylang).
Timers
Electric heat and cool air nebulizers can be purchased with timers, to produce intermittent diffusion. This reduces the amount of oil consumed, and prevents over-saturation in a room.
Other methods
Adding essential oils to room humidifiers
Essential oil rings places on light bulbs
The Absorption and Effects of Essential Oils
Glandular
Essential oils probably exert their most powerful and direct pharmacological effects systemically via the blood supply to the brain. They also have an indirect effect via the olfactory nerve pathways into the brain. Essential oil fragrances are absorbed through blood circulation and nerve pathways from the sinuses into the central glands of the brain, which control emotional, neurological, and immunological functions.
Skin
Essential oils are absorbed in minute quantities through the skin, depending on the oil, dilution, and application (carrier oil, compress, etc). Many of the indications for specific oils include various skin conditions.
Respiratory
Essential oils are inhaled during treatment, which have a direct effect of the sinuses, throat, and lungs. Many essential oils are specific medicines for respiratory conditions.
Circulation
Many essential oils have beneficial effects on circulatory problems, both through dermal and respiratory absorption. These oils enhance the circulation stimulating effects of massage.
Adulteration and Contamination
The 10 Most Important Points To Know Before You Purchase Essential Oils
1) “Pure”
In the US, the term “pure” has no legal meaning and is often applied to just about anything.
2) Synthetic Fragrances
Certain oils do not exist in a natural state, and are only available as synthetic fragrances or “bouqueted” fragrances (combination of essential oils, absolutes, and synthetics). These include honeysuckle, linden, gardenia, frangipani.
3) Adulteration
The more expensive an oil, the more risk of adulteration.
Some oils are highly adulterated, such as melissa (lemon balm), rose, and sandalwood.
4) Chain of Supply
The fragrance industry has many levels of buyers and suppliers. The more levels that are involved, the more there is risk of adulteration. Large volumes of oils are sold as “genuine” and “pure,” which are not. False advertising is rampant in the aromatherapy world. It is best to get oils directly from the distiller.
Pesticides
Some pesticides are carried over in the extracting process, some are not.
Expressed citrus oils contain pesticide residues.
5) Grades
Lower grades of oils are frequently sold as higher. A good example is ylang ylang.
6) Extenders
Many oils are “extended” using synthetic or natural solvents.
Expensive oils are frequently extended with jojoba.
Some oils are extended to make them more pourable, like benzoin; the solvent is frequently questionable.
7) Bulking
Bulking is the post-distillation combining of oils from one or more species, or loading plants of the same species from different harvests into the still together. Dried plant material from different years may be bulked with fresh.
Bulking is done to make the product cheaper and/or to make it conform to some standard desirable to the fragrance or flavoring industries.
8) Rectified or Redistilled:
Oils that have had natural components removed from them: terpene-less oils, furocoumarin-free oils.
9) Folded
Oils, (usually citrus) that have been redistilled a number of times to remove more of the monoterpenes (usually) to make the oil more desirable for the flavoring industry.
10) Reconstituted
Oils that have had natural or synthetic chemical components added to them after distillation.
The Safe Use of Essential Oils
In general, when used properly essential oils are quite safe and highly beneficial. However, because their uses are still relatively unknown, people can and do hurt themselves by using these highly concentrated botanical substances improperly.
Toxicology and Safety
• Do not use essential oils internally.
• Do not apply directly to skin; always dilute with carrier oil.
• Keep out of reach of children.
• Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
• Do not use citrus oils before exposure to UV light.
• Use only pure essential oils; avoid synthetic fragrances.
• Do not use essential oils on infants, children, pregnant women, the elderly, or those with serious health problems, without advanced medical study.
• Avoid prolonged exposure without ventilation.
• Store essential oils and carrier oils properly to avoid degradation and rancidity.
Do not use essential oils internally.
There are two exceptions to this rule.
• The first is properly administered dosages of essential oil medications prescribed by a licensed physician. This is now occurring in certain European clinics, but is rarely available in the US. People should avoid using essential oils internally if prescribed by a lay practitioner, especially if the practitioner’s education is primarily from the marketing perspective rather than clinical.
• The second exception is biocompatible levels of essential oil ingestion when taken as part of the diet. A good example of this is oregano oil. Oregano oil is widely marketed for internal consumption, with numerous claims made about its therapeutic efficacy. In actual practice, the internal consumption of this oil frequently causes the typical symptoms associated with the ingestion of essential oils, such as extreme gastric hyperacidity. On the other hand, the use of oregano as a fresh herb, steamed at the end of food preparation, provides all the benefits of oregano oil at a biocompatible level, with none of the gastric dangers.
Should accidental ingestion of any significant amount of an essential oil occur, immediately call your local Poison Control Center. Do not induce vomiting. Do not give water if breathing or swallowing is difficult.
Do not apply directly to skin; always dilute with carrier oil.
Essential oils are very concentrated. Dilute all essential oils before applying to the skin, either in a fatty oil, or in water as when used on a compress.
There are two exceptions to this rule.
The first is the use of attars as perfumes. Because the floral essences are distilled into a base of sandalwood oil, the sandalwood oil acts as a carrier which dilutes the potency of the pure essential oil.
The second is the reasonable use of mild essential oils that have a well documented history of safety. The best example of this is lavender; however, even lavender can be problematic for some people. Skin reactivity is becoming more of a problem as synthetic aroma chemicals become more common adulterants in the essential oil industry.
A general rule is to never apply more than one to two drops of undiluted oil to the skin. Patch testing is always advisable. For people with sensitive skin, always test a small area with a diluted oil before applying over a larger area. For general non-medical use, avoid essential oils with highly sensitive skin and with any instances of skin allergies, severe inflammation and dermatitis. Pure essential oils are much less dangerous than synthetic aroma chemicals.
Skin Reactions
Skin reactions are dependent on the type of oil, the concentration of the oil, and the condition of the skin. It is best to check with clients to determine any prior history of skin reactions before using oils, either for dermal or respiratory applications.
Old and oxidized oils are more prone to cause reactions, especially rashes. Refrigerate fatty carrier oils to prevent rancidity. Essential oils generally have a shelf life of one to three years. Some get better with age, such as sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. The citrus oils are most prone to degradation, and should be used within one year.
Skin reactions to essential oils can take three forms:
• Irritation:
A small number of oils are strongly or severely irritant. These include horseradish, mustard, garlic, and onion (which are rarely used in aromatherapy practice). Some oils used in massage practice can be moderately irritant, such as cinnamon, clove, fennel, and verbena. These oils should be used cautiously or avoided in cases of skin sensitivity.
• Sensitization:
Skin sensitization means an allergic skin reaction; this usually manifests as a rash. There are relatively few oils used in a typical massage practice that will produce sensitization under normal applications in a carrier oil. However, there are a number of reports on Pubmed of allergic reactions to essential oils. These include contact dermatitis, eczema, asthma, and pruritic erythematous eruptions. These cases were predominantly among those who used essential oils professionally for long periods of time, such as massage therapists and estheticians. The cases frequently involved exposure to numerous essential oils, and it is also likely that the quality of the oils was poor.
• Phototoxicity:
Some essential oils can strongly increase sensitivity to sunlight when applied to the skin. This is especially dangerous when applied undiluted to the skin, but even low concentrations in a carrier oil can cause problems if followed by exposure to sun or tanning lamps. Phototoxicity will be much stronger directly after application of the oil, and will gradually decrease over an eight to twelve hour period; if higher than normal concentrations are used it can be longer. Most of the phototoxic oils are also photocarcinogenic. The most common oils which cause phototoxicity are the citruses; bergamot is the most reactive. Some citruses are phototoxic if expressed, but not if distilled, such as lemon and lime. Other oils include marigold (tagetes), verbena, and angelica. The best practice is to use proper dilutions, avoid direct exposure to UV rays after application, and avoid the use of citrus oils if exposure will be occurring after treatment.
The best treatment for skin irritation from essential oils is to apply a fatty oil, such as coconut, which will dilute the impact of the essential oils.
Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes
If an essential oil gets into the eye, do not rub it. Saturate a cotton ball with milk or vegetable oil and wipe over the area affected. In severe instances flood the eye area with lukewarm water for fifteen minutes.
Take special precautions with applications near delicate skin areas.
Use only pure essential oils; avoid synthetic fragrances.
Avoid prolonged exposure without ventilation
Overexposure to essential oils, especially in confined areas, can cause dizziness, nausea, light headedness, headache, blood sugar imbalances, irritability, euphoria. When exposed to high levels of essential oils make sure to keep the room well ventilated.
Store essential oils and carrier oils properly to avoid degradation and rancidity.
Air, heat and light degrade essential oils. Store essential oils in a cool, dark room and always keep your oils tightly sealed.
Do not use essential oils on infants, children, pregnant women, the elderly, or those with serious health problems, without advanced medical study.
General Advice
Before experimenting with an oil, become familiar with it’s properties, dose, and precautions.
When in doubt about a condition or an oil, consult a qualified medical specialist.
If in doubt use safe, non-irritating essential oils and dilute them with a carrier oil before using.
Comparative evaluation of 11 essential oils of different origin as functional antioxidants, antiradicals and antimicrobials in foods
aDipartimento delle Risorse Naturali e Culturali, Lab. Biologia farmaceutica & Biotrasformazioni, Università degli Studi di Ferrara, C.so Porta Mare 2, I-44100 Ferrara, Italy
bDipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche, Università degli Studi di Ferrara, via Fossato di Mortara 17–19, I-44100 Ferrara, Italy
cFundacion Chankuap’, Macas, Ecuador
dDipartimento di Biologia Evolutiva e Funzionale, Sez. Biologia Vegetale e Orto Botanico, Università degli Studi di Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze 11A, 43100 Parma, Italy
Received 15 March 2004; revised 22 June 2004; accepted 22 June 2004. Available online 28 September 2004.
Abstract
Eleven essential oils, namely, Cananga odorata (Annonaceae), Cupressus sempervirens (Cupressaceae), Curcuma longa (Zingiberaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (Poaceae), Eucalyptus globulus (Myrtaceae), Pinus radiata (Pinaceae), Piper crassinervium (Piperaceae), Psidium guayava (Myrtaceae), Rosmarinus officinalis (Lamiaceae), Thymus x citriodorus (Lamiaceae) and Zingiber officinale (Zingiberaceae), were characterized by means of GC and GC–MS and evaluated for their food functional ingredient related properties. These properties were compared to those of Thymus vulgaris essential oil, used as a reference ingredient. Antioxidant and radical-scavenging properties were tested by means of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, β-carotene bleaching test and luminol-photochemiluminescence (PCL) assay. In the DPPH assay, C. odorata, C. citratus, R. officinalis and C. longa showed major effectiveness, with a radical inhibition ranging from 59.6 ± 0.42–64.3 ± 0.45%. In the β-carotene bleaching test, C. odorata (75.5 ± 0.53%), R. officinalis (81.1 ± 0.57%) and C. longa (72.4 ± 0.51%) gave the best inhibition results. Similar results were obtained for the same essential oils in the PCL assay. Antimicrobial properties were obtained on five food-spoilage yeasts: Candida albicans ATCC 48274, Rhodotorula glutinis ATCC 16740, Schizosaccharomyces pombe ATCC 60232, Saccharomyces cerevisiae ATCC 2365, Yarrowia lypolitica ATCC 16617 . C. citratus and T. x citriodorus were the most effective against the tested strains. Suggestions on relationships between chemical composition and biological activities are outlined.
bDipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche, Università degli Studi di Ferrara, via Fossato di Mortara 17–19, I-44100 Ferrara, Italy
cFundacion Chankuap’, Macas, Ecuador
dDipartimento di Biologia Evolutiva e Funzionale, Sez. Biologia Vegetale e Orto Botanico, Università degli Studi di Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze 11A, 43100 Parma, Italy
Received 15 March 2004; revised 22 June 2004; accepted 22 June 2004. Available online 28 September 2004.
Abstract
Eleven essential oils, namely, Cananga odorata (Annonaceae), Cupressus sempervirens (Cupressaceae), Curcuma longa (Zingiberaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (Poaceae), Eucalyptus globulus (Myrtaceae), Pinus radiata (Pinaceae), Piper crassinervium (Piperaceae), Psidium guayava (Myrtaceae), Rosmarinus officinalis (Lamiaceae), Thymus x citriodorus (Lamiaceae) and Zingiber officinale (Zingiberaceae), were characterized by means of GC and GC–MS and evaluated for their food functional ingredient related properties. These properties were compared to those of Thymus vulgaris essential oil, used as a reference ingredient. Antioxidant and radical-scavenging properties were tested by means of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, β-carotene bleaching test and luminol-photochemiluminescence (PCL) assay. In the DPPH assay, C. odorata, C. citratus, R. officinalis and C. longa showed major effectiveness, with a radical inhibition ranging from 59.6 ± 0.42–64.3 ± 0.45%. In the β-carotene bleaching test, C. odorata (75.5 ± 0.53%), R. officinalis (81.1 ± 0.57%) and C. longa (72.4 ± 0.51%) gave the best inhibition results. Similar results were obtained for the same essential oils in the PCL assay. Antimicrobial properties were obtained on five food-spoilage yeasts: Candida albicans ATCC 48274, Rhodotorula glutinis ATCC 16740, Schizosaccharomyces pombe ATCC 60232, Saccharomyces cerevisiae ATCC 2365, Yarrowia lypolitica ATCC 16617 . C. citratus and T. x citriodorus were the most effective against the tested strains. Suggestions on relationships between chemical composition and biological activities are outlined.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Homemade Laptop Wi-Fi Amplifier Review
Amplifying your laptop Wi-Fi
I have always been frustrated with the performance of my laptop Wi-Fi. I tried many solutions to improve the signal from far away routers, but few of these worked. I'll cover a solution that I came up with that finally did yield some results for me.
Most laptops nowadays have a mini PCI Wi-Fi card hooked to an antenna which is located inside a screen plastic cover on the laptop. I was browsing eBay recently and noticed that there were some Wi-Fi amplifiers available that promoted themselves as improving the reception of the signal. Sadly most of those amplifiers are designed to be hooked to a PCMCIA type card or a router! None of them seemed to be specifically made for a mini PCI card.
I decided to buy a Wi-Fi amplifier and hook it to my laptop. I have an ASUS A2H laptop with a Dell 1470 a/b/g Wi-Fi mini PCI card inside, I bought the card for $20 off of eBay. I bought the amplifier for $118, it is a 500 mw bi-directional amplifier called "turbo tenna", the amplifier was shipped from Hong Kong and I received it shortly after ordering on eBay.
The Wi-Fi Amplifier, "Turbo-Tenna", purchased from eBay (view large image)
The Design:
The first problem I faced with my Wi-Fi card were the connectors, they are so small and very difficult to connect to a plug, buying a special connector for the card would have cost me another $15 plus shipping, so I decided to solder the cable directly to the card. One of the best features of the Dell 1470 is that you can select the antenna plug you would like to use -- main or aux, so I selected the main and I soldered the cable to it.
The second problem was power supply! As usual, if you have a mother board the best power supply you can get is from a USB port. I needed 6v, and the USB was giving me 5v -- close enough!
Power supply from USB (view large image)
The third problem was hooking the card to the amplifier. I had 2 options, I could either take off the circuit of the amplifier and find a place for it in the laptop, which is a nice idea, or I can find a way to hook it externally. Though I wanted to put the amplifier inside the laptop, I decided not to do that for the following reasons:
- I wanted more liberty hooking any antenna I wanted to the amplifier.
- It is very difficult to find a place for the amplifier inside the laptop without affecting other components.
- Heat issues! Those amplifiers produce heat and they are not supplied with an adequate heat dispenser.
- The amplifier was expensive ($118) and I wanted to preserve it.
I decided to hook the amplifier through the VGA monitor out port! Why? First reason, the port is strong and can hold the weight of the amplifier, plus it comes with screw holes.
The VGA plug and Wi-Fi antenna cable (view large image)
Secondly, the VGA port comes with a few pins that are unassigned, sometimes they are soldered to the ground, and in some cases they are simply soldered to nothing. So it was a matter of testing those certain pins to see if they were connected to anything else on the mother board. After testing the pins I found out that pins # 9 and #11 were free, so I used #9 for the power supply and #11 for the antenna cable from the Wi-Fi card. I used the ground for the VGA for as a common ground for the power and antenna cable.
Wires in the VGA plug (view large image)
Wires to the VGA on board (view large image)
One thing I should mention, I am a switch freak, the more knobs on the machine the happier I am. I placed a switch inside the laptop that switches all the wirings between "normal" and "amplifier on". I have tried many Wi-Fi antennas, the "spider" antenna is effective but doesn't offer high gain, while the so called "russian" antenna gives you more gain, but it is a bit bulky. I have used the russian style antenna in this experiment.
Spider and Russian antenna examples (view large image)
Amplifier hooked to the laptop (view large image)
Testing:
Using "Network stumbler" as a testing software, here are the comparsions between normal and amplifier on:
Normal:
The signal is weak and intermittent, it doesn't even reach -90 dBm, which is very weak. If I get lucky, the connection is usually 1Mbps with signal strength 0-1% and sometimes no connectivity (I guess you understand my frustration). Very few signals are detected, and sometimes nothing at all.
Weak signal
Amplifier ON:
A dramatic increase in signal strength! More than -80dBm, and the speed of the connection is 24Mbps with signal strength 34% as compared to the same connection at 1% previously tested. You can also see more Wi-Fi connections around you, though of course they're all password protected.
Stronger signal
Signal difference chart (view large image)
Pros:
- You are never disconnected wherever you go!
- Very light and attractively built, adds style and performance to your laptop (it is fun to see other poeple looking at it and wondering what the hell is hooked to the VGA port!)
- Very mobile and removable modification.
Cons:
- Radiation, I believe this thing produces the same amount of radiation that a cell phone produces, so try not keep it on too much, especially when you don't need it.
- Power consumption! It drains your laptop battery.
- Interferes with the back of the display, unless the VGA port is on the side.
- Requires an internal modification to be used on the VGA port, the VGA port might cause probems if hooked to a monitor that uses the unassigned pins (very small likelyhood though, the switch I made saves the situation).
- Can't use VGA port and Wi-Fi amplifier in the same time.
- Don't do such modifications if you don't have the knowledge and experience...and guts.
- Every country has regulations, be careful not to break the rules when hooking such a powerful thing to a Wi-Fi card.
- Amplifier company says: "Don't exceed 50 mW to the input power of the pen booster", so if your card has higher capacity then it might damage the amplifier!
Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum (2009): More Than A New Concentration, More Than A Flanker {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}
Kelly Calèche Eau de Toilette was launched in the summer of 2007 followed in 2008 by a pure parfum version. The Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum iteration is the latest olfactory form and incarnation of Kelly Calèche to come out of Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena's perfume organ. While the first-in-the-series composition was not unpleasant, it had come across to me as being on the conservative side and I put off reviewng it for lack of any very definite ideas about it. The new EDP on the other hand has more personality and a winning softness and fruitiness. It also shocks you with the liberty it takes with the original rendition.
More than just being an intensified version of the original eau de toilette (In fact, it is softer; I have not smelled the parfum form, but it looks like it has been re-worked to new effect as well), it is a new interpretation of the formula, different enough to be considered a major variation, perhaps even a slight departure from the initial more Hermès-focused theme with its more palpable and central reference to the house's vault of precious skins. The initial concept of a precious floral leather has become even more subtle in its treatment of the leather notes made buttery-creamy and soft. And here comes the surprise, it is also much fruitier, showcasing a green melon note that we saw last year in Un Jardin Après La Mousson...
Official notes are: Barenia, Agneau Plongé, vegetable vine rose, irisey violet, a veil of vanilla...
Perfumes of Experience
The interesting part is the way in which this perfumer's work reveals complete coherence, not so much, or first and foremost with the Kelly Calèche fragrance collection as with Ellena's personal vision and recurrent olfactory themes which are weaved into the new fragrance in a subtle yet rather unambiguous manner as if representing the personal vocabulary of the perfumer. The result is not mechanical, nor empty; it lives. But it is a little unexpected nevertheless to see how Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum, which is currently widely marketed as an exclusive through the French Marionnaud chain of stores, dares to go in the direction of a personal perfume and I would even say, a perfume of experience (similarly Serge Lutens has made it felt more and more in his own perfumes that he privileges a sort of existential structuring of their development, on the model of a movie of life running in his mind).
The perfume of experience seems to place authenticity, life meaning, self-expression, first, and then the outwardly imposed necessity to be new, trendy, surprising, second. By letting go of a showy brand of originality, it reveals true personality.
Vetoing the Designer Perfume As We Know It
Creating in this manner is a departure from the model of the fashion shows mad productivity that have informed perfume launches since perfume history became intertwined with fashion history in the early 20th century, perhaps never more so than in the last few years or rather never more consciously so. I wager that the public discourse on perfume and perfumery having developed to a hitherto unknown scale thanks to the internet and the blog medium, this could only contribute to the industry's perception that perfume customers need to be kept interested.
Composing a scent in this manner for Ellena is thus like a resistance at the core to the idea of the designer perfume led by waves of fashion and the falsely appealing notion of novelty. After a certain point is reached, as we all know, the novelty imperative becomes replaced by the efficiency imperative, hence the greater number of smell-alikes thronging the shelves of perfumeries nowadays.
There is a difference however between a copycat and a creator's pursuit and deepening of her or his own themes of predilection. Ellena in particular being more mediatized than other perfumers is known for his variational approach to the creation of a perfume. Choosing which variation is going to represent best the idea of a certain perfume seems to be part of his thought process more so than for other perfumers as is typical in the industry given the greater freedom of creation he enjoys, a fact which is perceptible in the fragrances he makes for Hermès.
From these, a paradox is born: Kelly Calèche instead of accelerating our sense of time as typical flankers do (it is not even supposed technically to be one; only the concentration changed officially), is slowing it down, asking you the perfume wearer, to think continuous thoughts about the rest of Ellena's work in the past.
Minimalism, Variation and Repetition
Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum reprises the herbaly aromatic accord found in the eau de toilette as well as the light florals which are quite transparent here, but it is immediately fruitier, redolent of a green melon with that aquatic touch characteristic of the real fruit.
The perfume tresses threads of former perfumes: Un Jardin Après La Mousson, Déclaration, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Kelly Calèche EDT.
Next we find the mouthwatering spicy cardamom chaï with creamy vetiver found in Déclaration, a men's fragrance created in 1998. The melon, which is very much reminiscent of the melon note in Un Jardin Après La Mousson is paired with that accord. But the overall effect is very soft and skin-like, more evocative of soft luxury leather (Barania and Agneau Plongé) than of any kind of common leather.
If an eau de parfum is supposed to be more luxurious than the eau de toilette concentration and more intense in general when resting on floral essences, in this case the added sense of luxury is signaled by the increased softness of the leathers borrowing from the luxury code of the Hermès house rather than that of perfumery per se.
Another familiar accord which is present is that of the green tea of Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert weaving its refreshing accord into the perfume.
The scent is very diffusive, smelling in the end of a marvelous rose floating in the air, long after you have sprayed the perfume on.
As for Un Jardin Après La Mousson, one has this feeling of a thought-out form of originality deriving from the familiar and the personal. Jean-Claude Ellena's self-imposed limited palette of perfumery materials, 200, encourages not only a minimalist style but the use of repetitive figures as an aesthetic choice and as a rather natural pendant to minimalism. However at the same time variation is introduced and the perfumer does not hesitate to seek new materials to enrich his fundamental palette. Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:
Ed Hardy Love & Luck for Women & Men (2008): Japanese Taste Taken Hostage or The Art of the Generic Scent
Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage (2009): Elemental Gardenia
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (2009): The First Multi-Generational Guerlain
Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner on February 17, 2009 | Permalink
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More than just being an intensified version of the original eau de toilette (In fact, it is softer; I have not smelled the parfum form, but it looks like it has been re-worked to new effect as well), it is a new interpretation of the formula, different enough to be considered a major variation, perhaps even a slight departure from the initial more Hermès-focused theme with its more palpable and central reference to the house's vault of precious skins. The initial concept of a precious floral leather has become even more subtle in its treatment of the leather notes made buttery-creamy and soft. And here comes the surprise, it is also much fruitier, showcasing a green melon note that we saw last year in Un Jardin Après La Mousson...
Official notes are: Barenia, Agneau Plongé, vegetable vine rose, irisey violet, a veil of vanilla...
Perfumes of Experience
The interesting part is the way in which this perfumer's work reveals complete coherence, not so much, or first and foremost with the Kelly Calèche fragrance collection as with Ellena's personal vision and recurrent olfactory themes which are weaved into the new fragrance in a subtle yet rather unambiguous manner as if representing the personal vocabulary of the perfumer. The result is not mechanical, nor empty; it lives. But it is a little unexpected nevertheless to see how Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum, which is currently widely marketed as an exclusive through the French Marionnaud chain of stores, dares to go in the direction of a personal perfume and I would even say, a perfume of experience (similarly Serge Lutens has made it felt more and more in his own perfumes that he privileges a sort of existential structuring of their development, on the model of a movie of life running in his mind).
The perfume of experience seems to place authenticity, life meaning, self-expression, first, and then the outwardly imposed necessity to be new, trendy, surprising, second. By letting go of a showy brand of originality, it reveals true personality.
Vetoing the Designer Perfume As We Know It
Creating in this manner is a departure from the model of the fashion shows mad productivity that have informed perfume launches since perfume history became intertwined with fashion history in the early 20th century, perhaps never more so than in the last few years or rather never more consciously so. I wager that the public discourse on perfume and perfumery having developed to a hitherto unknown scale thanks to the internet and the blog medium, this could only contribute to the industry's perception that perfume customers need to be kept interested.
Composing a scent in this manner for Ellena is thus like a resistance at the core to the idea of the designer perfume led by waves of fashion and the falsely appealing notion of novelty. After a certain point is reached, as we all know, the novelty imperative becomes replaced by the efficiency imperative, hence the greater number of smell-alikes thronging the shelves of perfumeries nowadays.
There is a difference however between a copycat and a creator's pursuit and deepening of her or his own themes of predilection. Ellena in particular being more mediatized than other perfumers is known for his variational approach to the creation of a perfume. Choosing which variation is going to represent best the idea of a certain perfume seems to be part of his thought process more so than for other perfumers as is typical in the industry given the greater freedom of creation he enjoys, a fact which is perceptible in the fragrances he makes for Hermès.
From these, a paradox is born: Kelly Calèche instead of accelerating our sense of time as typical flankers do (it is not even supposed technically to be one; only the concentration changed officially), is slowing it down, asking you the perfume wearer, to think continuous thoughts about the rest of Ellena's work in the past.
Minimalism, Variation and Repetition
Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum reprises the herbaly aromatic accord found in the eau de toilette as well as the light florals which are quite transparent here, but it is immediately fruitier, redolent of a green melon with that aquatic touch characteristic of the real fruit.
The perfume tresses threads of former perfumes: Un Jardin Après La Mousson, Déclaration, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Kelly Calèche EDT.
Next we find the mouthwatering spicy cardamom chaï with creamy vetiver found in Déclaration, a men's fragrance created in 1998. The melon, which is very much reminiscent of the melon note in Un Jardin Après La Mousson is paired with that accord. But the overall effect is very soft and skin-like, more evocative of soft luxury leather (Barania and Agneau Plongé) than of any kind of common leather.
If an eau de parfum is supposed to be more luxurious than the eau de toilette concentration and more intense in general when resting on floral essences, in this case the added sense of luxury is signaled by the increased softness of the leathers borrowing from the luxury code of the Hermès house rather than that of perfumery per se.
Another familiar accord which is present is that of the green tea of Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert weaving its refreshing accord into the perfume.
The scent is very diffusive, smelling in the end of a marvelous rose floating in the air, long after you have sprayed the perfume on.
As for Un Jardin Après La Mousson, one has this feeling of a thought-out form of originality deriving from the familiar and the personal. Jean-Claude Ellena's self-imposed limited palette of perfumery materials, 200, encourages not only a minimalist style but the use of repetitive figures as an aesthetic choice and as a rather natural pendant to minimalism. However at the same time variation is introduced and the perfumer does not hesitate to seek new materials to enrich his fundamental palette. Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:
Ed Hardy Love & Luck for Women & Men (2008): Japanese Taste Taken Hostage or The Art of the Generic Scent
Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage (2009): Elemental Gardenia
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (2009): The First Multi-Generational Guerlain
Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner on February 17, 2009 | Permalink
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Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum?
What to consider: "The intensity of essential oils is greater in eau de parfum than in eau de toilette," says Mary Ellen Lapsansky, executive director of the Fragrance Foundation, in New York City. Since eau de parfum is heavy on oils and light on alcohols, it will last longer on your skin―and also cost more. (Eau de cologne is actually the least concentrated of scents but can be used interchangeably with eau de toilette.)
Bottom line: You need only one. Choose based on your desired level of intensity (and price range).
Bottom line: You need only one. Choose based on your desired level of intensity (and price range).
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